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The Right Lead, and it's cyber companion The Right Lead On Line©, are reader-to-reader open forums. If you haven't visited the on line forum lately you're in for a surprise, we've updated and changed the format so it's easier to use- come check it out! Each month you'll find new questions, tips and suggestions, as well as answers to questions in previous issues, so hang on to all your back issues for easy reference. This column's primary focus is the horsemen and women of the Southwestern United States, but good information travels well and is welcome no matter what the region or country. We want to hear from you on any area of horse life, from breeding and barn management, to horse care and health, budgeting money and time, training, riding and showing. Keep you letters as brief, but as complete, as possible and photos or illustrations are welcome; please only send copies, as we may be unable to return them to you.
You do not have to be a trainer or recognized expert, we believe the lessons you've learned through the equine school of hard knocks and trial and error, could be of invaluable assistance to others and ask you to share them with the readers of this column. Anyone of any age, whether you own a horse or not, is encouraged to write in. English, Western, Dressage, Trail, Reining, Cutting or Barrel Race, equine professional or dedicated amateur, this article's success depends on your participation so let's hear from you!
BACK TO TOP ISSUE: JANUARY 1999
HELP
WANTED!
Q. Can't
Cut It:
Can anyone suggest a good, but inexpensive clipper?
Our old electric "just ain't cutting it" anymore and we'd
like to replace it without a lot of trial and error. We'd also like
to find the best small, battery (or rechargeable) operated clipper
for ears and face that can take a beating and won't die in a month.
Finally, can anyone suggest a good book on clipping techniques?
Thanks! Lindsey and Sidney G., from Ardmore, Oklahoma.
Q. The
Young and the Rustless:
My husband and I just had the wooden posts in our
fence replaced with pipe and we'd like to find an inexpensive way to
keep the pipes from rusting. Linda F., from
Albuquerque, New Mexico.
Q. Relaxation
Frustration:
I can't seem to get my back and shoulders to relax on
(or off) my horse. My hips move with the horse, but nothing else
seems to! Can anyone suggest stretches or exercises that can get the
stiffness out? Thanks! Kathy S., from
Oklahoma City, Oklahoma.
READER RESPONSE:
Searching
for a New Path
(from September, 1998):
R: My
favorite is the newly opened LCRA park called "McKinney
Roughs." Beautiful river bottom trails on the Colorado River,
lots of acreage to travel, and a visitor's center. There is an area
for horse trailers and overnight camping is allowed. The cost is ten
dollars a day and the park is ten miles east of Austin on Hwy 71 E
(between Austin and Bastrop). Lin S.
School
Daze (from October, 1998):
R: I
have a problem with boredom as well. I ride and school my horses by
myself and it's easy to get into a rut, but I've found it can be a
lot of fun to come up with my own exercises and routines to challenge
myself and my colt. A friend recently told me about a book that she
said can help, it's called 101
ARENA EXERCISES by Cherry Hill. Check it out
and send us a book review! Joy B., from
Buda, Texas.
Necessary
Shots (from December, 1998):
R: Whether
or not you plan to show your horse, you really should keep him fully
immunized! As my Vet, Dr. Tom House, DVM, in San Marcos, Texas, is
fond of saying, "It's easier to prevent disease than treat
it" The vaccinations your horse will need will be
Tetanus/Encephalitis (VEWT), Influenza/Rhinopneumonitis, as well as
Strep/Strangles. I would also like to encourage you to have your
horse vaccinated for Rabies. In the state of Texas, you need to carry
either the original proof of a negative Coggins report (yellow
sheet), or you can take a legible photo copy as long as it is
validated by the testing Veterinarian. In other words, take your
photocopy to your Vet and have him sign or initial it again (I would
suggest in a contrasting ink, i.e., blue). Good luck. Joy
B., from Buda, Texas.
Gate
Crasher (from December, 1998):
R: The
word "suddenly" bothers me. In my experience with my
horses, "suddenly" either means something in their
environment has changed in a big, bad, way or I
missed the signals! Play detective! Try to
think ahead of your horse, see what he's seeing and you might
discover some important clues to his behavior. Check his stable and
stall for anything that could be upsetting him, i.e., light bulb
on/off, going out or missing, hornet's nest, sharp objects and
shorting wires in the stall or around the door frame. Check his
vision, as a prey animal, going from a brightly-lit area into a dark
place is more difficult for a horse than we (predators) understand.
Try to wait about an hour after he's stalled to feed him and make
sure he's getting enough to eat in the first place- food anxiety
could also account for his behavior.
If he's trying to "outrank" you, try this. Lead him to the stall with the door closed, allow him to squirm until he stands quietly, when he does, reward him with strokes and praise and walk him away from the stall. When you can do this consistently and repeatedly, do it again but with the stall door open. Once again, strokes and praise when he stands quietly, but don't put him in the stall yet, lead him away. The next step is to lead him to the stall door, pause, and then lead him in. If at any time he starts acting out, start over again calmly and quietly- resist the urge to get excited and upset- it won't help and will probably undo all the hard work you've done up to this point. Hopefully, he'll get the idea and get past this, but it will take time. I would suggest starting in the morning on a day when there isn't a lot of activity at the barn so neither one of you would be distracted or feel pressured. Joy B., from Buda, Texas.
STABLE
CUES:
* More
Sad Tails:
I did the same thing (Ed. note: see Sad Tails in
October 1998 issue) and learned a harsh lesson. Now I wait until
about five minutes before I enter the show ring, apply (lightly) baby
oil to help settle down the dock hairs and wrap - LOOSELY- with a
polo wrap. Next, just before we enter the ring, I slide it down and
off and mount up. Anonymous from San Diego, California.
CYBER
PASTURES:
* I
think you'll like Four Legs and a Tale, a Canadian site that takes a
while to load, but is well worth the wait.
www.geocities/Heartland/3894/ Joy B. from
Buda, Texas. (Ed. note: This site is no longer
in operation. 17 Mar 2001.)
* This
Australian web site is a handy, quick reference guide on
vaccinations, symptoms and diseases, check out http://www.cyberhorse.net.au/csl/equivac.htm Joy
B. from Buda, Texas.
BOOK/VIDEO
CORRAL:
* A
book for people like me who ride alone is RIDING
FOR THE REST OF US: A PRACTICAL GUIDE FOR ADULT RIDERS,
by Jessica Jahiel. I haven't read it yet, but trust the
recommendation from Allan Pogue of Creedmore, Texas, someone whom I
consider to be somewhat of an authority on horse related books. Joy
B., from Buda, Texas.
* CENTERED
RIDING by Sally Swift is still a must read for all
new riders, or riders wanting to brush up on their horsemanship, and
is available at most tack, book, and "cyber" stores. Johanna
C., from Collinsville, Texas.
FREE
STUFF:
* Pfizer
Animal Health has introduced the Preventicare Colic Assistance Plan.
This plan is a form of insurance that will help with colic related
surgical expenses up to $5,000.00, for horses enrolled through their
Veterinarian. This plan is free to the horse owner and could be
invaluable in the event of an emergency. Talk to your Vet. about the
conditions and requirements for enrolling your horse. Joy
B., from Buda, Texas.
BACK TO TOP ISSUE: FEBRUARY 1999
HELP WANTED!
Q. Out
of the Blue:
I have a real problem that is getting out of control
so I'd appreciate any information your readers can provide. I have a
horse that, out of the blue, has begun to rear and strike at me, and
charge anyone entering his "zone" whether it is human or
horse. He's been shown extensively and has points, so he's been
trained and handled prior to my purchasing him six months ago. In
fact, I bought him because he was already
trained! I can't afford to pay a professional trainer right now, and
in this condition I can't resell him- I'm stuck! I don't want to give
up on this horse, but his behavior has me more than just a little
concerned, frankly, we need help. Determined
in Texas.
Q. Mounting
Trouble:
I know to some people this will sound silly, but I'm
having trouble mounting my horse. Every time I try to get on him,
either from the ground or from a mounting block, he turns his head
into me making his butt swing away and I can't get my foot in the
stirrup. His other favorite trick is as soon as I actually get
a foot in the stirrup, is to walk off before I can swing up and I
have to hop all over the place to get on! It's really embarrassing
and I don't know how to stop him. Aside from shooting him and getting
another horse, what can I do? Lexie from
Belton, Texas.
Q. Slug
Bug:
I'm having a hard time keeping my gelding moving
forward at the walk and trot. I have to constantly push him. I don't
carry a crop and my leg isn't good enough to wear spurs (in my
opinion). Any ideas? Anonymous from Monroe, Louisiana.
Q. Changing
Feeds:
I'm about to move my first horse from a boarding barn
to my place and want to change his feed from the barn's pre-mixed
sweet feed to something like a Purina Omolene feed. Any suggestions
on which feed is best and how to switch him over? We'll be pretty
active with horse shows, play days, and trail rides. He's a
seven-year-old Reg. Paint, 15.3 hands, 1,100 lbs. and in good health
with sound feet- I only want the best for Pudden! Laura
A.
READER RESPONSE:
Are
Slant Load Trailers Best? (from November, 1998):
R-1: I
read articles on the subject for a long time and the best advice was
to always go bigger than what you thought you would need. We started
out with a two horse with tack/dressing area. Two months later went
to a twelve-foot gooseneck. We go camping with our horses for the
weekends so seven months later ordered a fourteen-foot gooseneck with
closed in dressing/tack. I wanted a sixteen-foot slant with rear tack
that would have hauled three horses, but men always get what they
want. Well anyway, a couple of months later he wishes he had so when
we sell this one&ldots; Kay S. from Virginia.
R-2: Another
suggestion is look for options. Something you might want to consider
is a four horse stock trailer with removable, adjustable partitions-
that way you get the best of both front and slant load worlds. I
would advise against a ramp and go with a step-up. We have a great
trailer out here that can't be used until
the ramp is repaired, so we're stuck at home for now. I've been
advised a gooseneck is a more comfortable ride for your horse because
the hitch sits right on top of your truck's shock absorbers, but a
bumper pull is easier to pull if you've never hauled before because
the trailer follows the exact path as your truck. You really have to
practice making wide turns with a gooseneck! For stability, I would
look for a trailer with a wide body and low center of gravity and I
would suggest one with good ventilation, as Texas road heat can be a killer.
To me, a tack/dressing area is a definite plus as bending over and arranging heavy tack in a half compartment under the hay rack can really hurt your back and scar up your tack. I would look for one with an escape hatch big enough for you, but not so big as your horse is tempted to squirt through, and really check out the inside for sharp edges and rotten boards in the floor. Also, don't forget to check out the interior height to be sure that your horse can ride in it comfortably and safely. Good Luck! Joy B., from Buda, Texas.
Relaxation
Frustration (from January, 1999):
R:
You're obviously tensed up- try not to worry about moving your back
and shoulders while you're riding. I have a couple of recommendations
for you. First, get John Lyon's video
RESISTANCE FREE RIDING- PART 2. It has some exercises
for learning balance and relaxation, but you'll need a buddy to do
some of the exercises. Second, take riding lessons. As soon as you
tense up, your trainer will let you know!!! Toni
B., from Chico, Texas.
STABLE CUES:
* Show
Prep:
This is a great tip passed on to me by a friend who
swears by it. To clean wool saddle pads, use a steam clean carpet
cleaner and a mild soap, such as Woolite. Hang your saddle pads and
clean them the same way you would your area rugs. To facilitate quick
drying, use a wet/dry shop vac. Has anyone else tried this and does
it really work? Joy B., from Buda, Texas.
* Great
Mud Remover:
I use my cat brush- the ones with all the tiny metal
fingers- to remove caked on mud from my horses. It breaks up the mud
balls so all I have to do is brush them off with my regular horse
brush. The cat brush is quite small so it gets into places a curry
comb can't, but you have to use it with a light touch or the horse
may object! I have found it's the fastest way to get those mud smears
and crumbs out of my horses' coats. Lynn F.,
from San Marcos, Texas.
CYBER
PASTURES:
* If
you are interested in Cutting, Reining, or National Snaffle Bit
Association sites, you'll want to check out these web rings at http://greenfield.fortunecity.com/hunters/200/webring.html Joy
B. from Buda, Texas.
* Are
you trying to find out if the name you've chosen for your Quarter
Horse foal is still available, or want to do research on a Stallion
or Mare in your horse's pedigree? The AQHA has a special section in
their web site that can help you out. You can access it through their
"For Members Only" link, if you aren't a current member or
need a pin number to access this page, all the information you'll
need to get started is right there. The link for the AQHA is http://www.aqha.com .
Joy B. from Buda, Texas.
BOOK/VIDEO
CORRAL:
* If
you are about to have a new foal, you might want to check out the
book by Dr. Robert Miller, DVM, and titled
IMPRINT TRAINING OF THE NEW FOAL. We used it last year
with our second foal and I'm so glad we did, I really think it's made
a difference. J. and L. from Plano, Texas.
* Anyone
wanting to get into barrel racing needs to buy this book, BARREL
RACING, by
Sharon Camarillo. In my opinion, this book is the best out there
on training and competing for both serious competition and fun days.
Good Luck! Christy from Austin, Texas.
BACK TO TOP ISSUE: MARCH 1999
HELP WANTED!
Q. Dull
Coat Lacks Luster:
I can't seem to get my horse's coat to shine. I bathe
him twice a week and use Show Sheen, but his coat still doesn't look
right and his mane and tail are full of split ends. Can anyone
suggest a better shampoo? Cathy S., from
Enid, Oklahoma.
Q. What's
a Blister Beetle?
I've heard, off and on over the past year or so, about
a bug in Alfalfa called the "Blister Beetle" but never paid
attention because I wasn't feeding Alfalfa to my horse. Now that I am
starting to feed it, I wish I'd listened! I would appreciate a
"heads up" on the bug, how to detect them and how much of a
threat are they to my horse. Thanks! Jennifer
W., from Austin, Texas.
READER RESPONSE:
Out
of the Blue (from February, 1999):
R: I'd
really like to know the age of this horse and it's background- if he
has, as you say, "been shown extensively," he may be
approaching burn-out. A month or two free in a pasture just being a
horse might be in order. I'd also suggest you check your tack to see
if you could have inadvertently been hurting him- even a too-tight
halter will cause a horse extreme discomfort and make him a fighter.
You might be feeding him a too high protein mix, anything more than
twelve percent is going to make him "hotter," particularly
if he isn't getting enough exercise. Nanci
F. from Lockhart, Texas.
Mounting
Trouble (from February, 1999):
R-1:
You might need a helper to cure your hard to mount horse. Line him up
next to a fence so he can't swing his butt away from you, have
someone hold his head and (you) get on and off repeatedly- make him
stand and not just walk off. Be sure you aren't accidentally gouging
him in the side with your toe when you mount- he may be responding to
something you are doing unintentionally. Keep it calm and quiet- but
make him stand. This takes time, so don't get impatient- that's
likely what caused the problem in the beginning. If you are short
legged and he is tall, that compounds the problem but it is not
unsolvable. Take your time. Nanci F. from
Lockhart, Texas.
R-2: First,
make sure the tack fits so he is comfortable when he's being ridden.
If riding hurts, he will try different things to avoid being ridden.
Be careful when you do get your foot in the stirrup that you don't
poke him with your toe while mounting. Try lengthening your stirrups
A LOT! Like to the longest hole while teaching him to let you mount.
In a Hunt Seat saddle you can shorten it again after you mount.
That's harder in a Western saddle and you may have to content
yourself with a few days of walk-trot without stirrups. Lunge him
before riding to get a trace of the energy out. Mount with a tight
rein. Almost, but not quite, tight enough to make him back up. That
will give you stop power if he starts to move while you're just half
way up. Tell him "whoa" and enforce it with the rein, even
if you have your stomach on the saddle at the time instead of your
hips. Get in the habit of never mounting and starting up immediately.
Teach him that after you mount you will always stand still while you
get collected. Make "whoa" mean complete and full stop
every time- no matter when it is used (from the ground, from a walk,
or from a canter) so that it will get the stop even without the rein
pull. Non of this is a quick fix. Good training takes time but pays
off with good behavior. Dot F., from Cedar
Creek, Texas.
Slug
Bug (from
February, 1999):
R: You
need to start carrying a crop. First, make sure your crop is long
enough to reach below the calf of your leg without having to move
your hand. It should be used with a snap of the wrist and NOT a swing
of the hand. Second, PRECEDE the use of the crop with a squeeze of
both legs. You want your horse to start listening to your leg, so the
sequence should be squeeze and release, THEN, squeeze and use the
crop at the same time. Pop your horse only as hard as necessary to
get a response. Your crop should be used to emphasize your leg
squeeze and not as a punishment to your horse. Be consistent and your
horse will soon not only maintain his "cruise control" but
also respond to a light squeeze of the legs without the crop. Jack
S., from Austin, Texas.
Changing
Feeds (from February, 1999):
R: You
asked a very good question and one for which there a lot of
different opinions and answers! What I did with my horses, was I
consulted with my Vet and Farrier first and got their input. Next,
based on their recommendations, I read everything I could to decide
which Purina product had the right amount of protein, biotin and
vitamins, etc., for each horse. Once the decision was made, I then
made the transfer over to the new feed very
slowly. I would recommend you buy at least 50 lbs. of the boarding
barn's formula the day you leave and start the changeover at your
place where you can control the amount and monitor the horse.
Using a 2 1/2 lb. measuring scoop, I would fill the scoop with the horse's current feed in the normal amount, then take back out about an eighth, replacing it with the new feed. I would keep it at this level for about a week with the next week taking out about a quarter and replacing that amount with the new feed. The next half-and-half, etc., until you have a scoop full of the new feed.
I haven't had horse colic or founder by going this slow, and some people suggest going even slower, but the above mentioned regimen works for me. You'll have to monitor your horse closely and use common sense, keep your Vet and Farrier involved in the process. I know of people who just change their horses over and have not had problems, BUT, I wouldn't want to risk my horses that way and strongly advise against it. I feel it's better to go slow and head off trouble in the first place than try to repair the damage once it's too late. Joy B., from Buda, Texas.
STABLE
CUES:
* Sound
Advice:
With this unusually dry weather, my horse's feet are
as dry as they would be in July! My farrier suggested the simplest
was to replenish hoof moisture is to let the water troughs overflow
when I fill them so the horses stand in the mud when they drink. It
worked great this past Summer and I'm already noticing a difference
in their hoof condition, now. Word of caution though, if your horse
is wearing pads, or has a hoof condition that requires special care,
consult with your Farrier or Vet first. Joy
B., from Buda, Texas.
CYBER
PASTURES:
* If
you want to learn more about equine rescue, visit H.O.R.S.E.S. In
Texas at their new web site http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Village/8590/ Joy
B. from Buda, Texas.
* For
fans of Linda
Tellington-Jones and the TTouch
Method, you'll want to check out the web site for C
and D Circle Star at http://www.micoks.net/~carmour/index.html They
advocate the TTeam Natural Horsemanship Training Program.
Joy B. from Buda, Texas.
BOOK/VIDEO
CORRAL:
* I
just finished reading three books I'd like to recommend. THINK
HARMONY WITH HORSES by Ray Hunt, a small book packed
with information from a lifetime of experience with horses. PROBLEM
SOLVING by Marty Marten uses
the methods of Tom
Dorrance, Ray Hunt and Buck Brannaman. Marty tells
you how to solve the most common training problems. IMPRINT
TRAINING OF THE NEWBORN FOAL by Robert Miller, DVM,
is a must read for anyone planning on having their own foal to raise
and train. I'm going to read this one over and over! Lynn
F., from San Marcos, Texas.
BACK TO TOP ISSUE: APRIL 1999
HELP WANTED!
Q.
Good
As New?
For the first time, I'm getting to CHOOSE the saddle
for my horse, not just use the one that came with him! I've saved up
enough to buy a good used saddle, but don't know if that is the best
way to go. I'm worried about quality and how much it might cost to
restore the saddle and the leather. Should I wait and save more and
buy a new saddle, or are used ones worth the risk? L.W.
from Waco, Texas.
Q. REPRINT:
Can't Cut It:
Can anyone suggest a good, but inexpensive clipper?
Our old electric "just ain't cutting it" anymore and we'd
like to replace it without a lot of trial and error. We'd also like
to find the best small, battery (or rechargeable) clipper for ears
and face that can take a beating and won't die in a month. Finally,
can anyone suggest a good book on clipping techniques? Thanks! Lindsey
and Sidney G., from Ardmore, Oklahoma.
Q.
REPRINT: Simple Bookkeeping:
Can anyone suggest a computer bookkeeping program for
a small horse farm? I'm using Windows95 and a Pentium 90 computer.
Lizbeth from Dripping Springs, Texas.
READER RESPONSE:
Changing
Feeds (from
February, 1999):
R: Get
the boarding barn to give you the "recipe" for their
pre-mixed sweet feed and check at your local feed stores to see what
they have that most closely matches the feed your horse has been
eating. Grainland makes a feed called "C.O.B." (corn, oats,
barley) that is sweetened with molasses and is a very complete feed-
close to Purina Omolene 100. Switching to any new feed takes some
time- take a sack of the boarding barn's feed with you so you can mix
the new feed in until you have him switched over. Nanci
F. from Lockhart, Texas.
What
is a Blister Beetle? (from March, 1999):
R: A
few blister beetles in a flake of Alfalfa can be FATAL
to your horse. This is a serious threat, so don't take it lightly. I
don' t feed Alfalfa myself, so I don't know all the details, but you
can find the information you need on the Internet. Probably a search
for "blister beetle" or "Alfalfa" would take you
where you need to go. Lynn F. from San
Marcos, Texas.
Dull
Coat Lacks Luster (from March, 1999):
R: First
thing, in my opinion, you are bathing your horse too much. I feel
you're washing away your horse's natural body oils, which are
essential to healthy skin and a shiny coat. Also, Show Sheen is a
silicon-based product that, while I use it myself on show days, I
don't feel it should be used on a daily basis. According to an
article I read a while back, silicon coats the hair shaft and doesn't
allow it to breathe, which I believe may account for the dull,
brittle, split ends you described in your question. Try this for a
while and see if it works for you:
These tips have been passed along, rider-to-rider, for years and have worked well for us. Use a rubber curry and brush to groom him at least once everyday, if possible, twice a day would be even better. You should do this before you ride anyway, but be sure to do it after you ride while his body is still warm and the pores are open to stimulate the oil glands. If you have to bathe him, be absolutely sure you've removed all the soap and follow up with a coat restorer or try V05's Hot Oil Treatment to replace oils stripped away by the soap. Try to avoid using any silicon-based product. Certain fly sprays contain coat conditioners and these will help as well. I like Absorbine's UltraShield best, but there are others on the market that will do the job.
You might want to consider a vitamin supplement with biotin and oil meal in it, the one's we use are Farrier's Formula or 707. A daily worming program, such as Strongid C 2-X will do wonders for your horse's coat, especially if you use a daily probiotic, like FasTrak. For good measure, I add one ounce of corn or canola oil to my horse's AM and PM feeds everyday, it's an old race track trick, but it works.
If you try these tips and nothing seems to be helping, then it's time to call your Vet in for a diagnosis. Good Luck and I hope this helps! Joy B. from Buda, Texas.
STABLE
CUES:
* Show
Prep, continued:
This goes along with last month's tip about using a
steam cleaner and wet/dry shop vac to clean saddle pads. We picked
this tip up from somewhere, but I'm not sure where. Anyway, what we
do, with mostly good results and one disaster I don't want to mention
here (but it wasn't my fault!) is we take our everyday saddle pads
that get really nasty to the car wash and hang them in the floor mat
clamps. We use the full force of the jet to soap first, then
rinse them out. They get really soaked and take a while to dry, but
it's better than trying to sneak them into the laundry mat! By the
way, if you try this, it's not a good idea to hit the hot wax button!
Happy Trails! Joy B., too, from Oklahoma
City, Oklahoma.
* Safety
Note:
All of us, at some point or another will feed our
horse a carrot. If you like to chop them up to keep your greedy gut
from eating the carrot too fast, you could be putting your horse at
risk for choking. A tip just passed on from A.Q.H.A. is that if you
feed your horse carrots, slice them down the middle in long pieces,
not chunks. They stated that sliced pieces are less likely to cause
your horse to choke than round chunks that carrot pigs are likely to
swallow whole. I would like to add that it's a good idea (especially
for small children) to feed any treat from a bucket rather than from
your hand. Feeding from the bucket can help prevent accidentally
feeding small fingers to horses as well as cut down the potential for
developing bad manners, such as nipping, crowding and other
aggressive behaviors. Joy B. from Buda, Texas.
CYBER
PASTURES:
*
If you're struggling with this
year's taxes and need the current publications, or just need a
certain form, and it's too late to run to the Post Office, you can
probably find what you need at
www.ttaxhorses.com . Click on "Other Web Pages" for the Internal Revenue Service's official links. Joy B. from Buda, Texas. (Ed. note: This site has been temporarily closed. 17 Mar 2001.)
FREE
STUFF:
*
With Rodeo season in full swing,
everyone is enjoying the Cowboy culture and celebrating all things
Western, but do you really know what "Rodeo" is all about?
The Professional Rodeo Cowboys Association, PRCA, has put out two
publications free of charge which are full of rodeo facts and
information you're sure to enjoy! You can order THE COWBOY SPORT
and HUMANE FACTS from the PRCA at 101 Pro Rodeo Dr., Colorado
Springs, CO, 80919, or order on-line at http://www.prorodeo.com .
Joy B. from Buda, Texas.
BACK TO TOP ISSUE: MAY 1999
HELP WANTED!
Q. Hoof
war rages on!
At our barn, we're having a major disagreement about
hoof care, in particular, hoof dressings and thrush remedies. My
farrier has strongly advised me NOT to use oily mixtures on my
horse's hooves, saying that it could actually damage the hoof wall
and cause the nails to become loose. He advises me to use a lanolin
product only on the coronet band to add moisture and stand him in mud
if he gets real dry. The barn's farrier says that's bad advice and
suggests his clients use oil based dressings and says he uses a
mixture of burned motor oil and pine tar on his own horses and paints
the entire hoof. I trust my farrier's advice but am outnumbered at
the barn and would appreciate some outside advice.-
Name and location withheld by request.
Q. Halters
on pastured horses?
I moved my horse to a great barn that has community
turn out and the only problem is all the horses are supposed to be
haltered while they're out in pasture. I've always used nylon halters
because they're cheap, but have always been told not to leave a
halter on in pasture for a number reasons. The barn owner said not to
worry about it, but I am worried because it cost a lot to move the
horse here and I can't afford to buy a leather halter right now even
if I knew how to pick a good one.- No name given.
Q. Hands
on problem:
Can anyone help me find a way to get "good
hands?" I've been riding for a year in weekly lessons and am
really frustrated. I can't seem to keep my hands still and am
constantly being yelled at by my instructor. I'm really trying with
all my heart, but I just don't seem to be able to get it right.
Please help.- Tanya from Texas.
Q. Nasty
water troughs!
Hi! My question is how do you keep water troughs
clean? We have large cement tanks and smaller aluminum troughs that
get slimy, full of algae and are impossible to keep clean. We use
goldfish to keep the mosquitoes down, so we can't drain the troughs.
We have an old QH mare (27!) and a pregnant Pintarabian mare so
anything we use has to be environmentally friendly.-
KC from Rosharon, TX (on line).
READER RESPONSE:
Simple
bookkeeping (from November, 1998):
R: Try
HorseTrak Business, you can order it through their website or
through Bookstable's website/catalog. I use it and am happy with it. -
Lisa from Lockhart, TX (on line). (Ed. note:
you can find HorseTrack- Horse Management Software at http://www.horsetrak.com or
by calling 1-800-798-4422.)
Blister
Beetle in Alfalfa (
from March, 1999):
R-1: Lynn
was right in her answer from last month's issue, there is a lot of
information on Blister Beetles! While researching this question on
the net, I came across an article by Donald Stotts out of Stillwater,
OK, which covers the subject very well. He provides useful
information and answers to questions on how the beetle actually
contaminates the bales, how and when to select bales to lower the
risk of contamination, the seriousness of the threat to horses, how
to recognize symptoms and the treatments available. I would suggest
talking with your vet to see if your horse really needs to be fed
Alfalfa and what your options are and then check out Mr. Stotts'
article at http://www.okstate.edu/ag/agedcm4h/ag_news/0323bugs.txt - Joy
B. (Ed. note: This page is no longer
available. 17 Mar 2001.)
R-2:
It takes only a few of these insects to cause a problem. What happens
is that these insects produce a substance called
"Cantharidin" which aids them in defense of themselves.
After an animal, or even a human, has either eaten this insect or
touched it, it produces blisters, hence the name. So you can imagine
if a horse eats a few of these insects what it can do to it's throat,
as well as it's stomach. The best defense is to buy alfalfa after
it's first cutting, although the quality is not as good, you run less
of a chance of getting the beetles in your hay. -
Erich P. from OK (on line)
STABLE
CUES:
* DMSO
Reminder!
My gelding suffered a severe kick to the knee last
January that could have caused him to be lame for the rest of his
life. One of the tools I used during his recovery and rehab. in late
January and February was a chemical called DMSO. It worked like a
charm and April 16th, Gryphon was pronounced sound!!! DMSO is a
miracle drug when used correctly but can be very dangerous if abused
or used carelessly. Please remember, whenever you have to use strong
medications and chemicals in the care of your horse, and the label
gives you instructions on how to use the product safely, follow them
to the letter- don't take chances with your own life to save your
horse's. Be careful and good luck! -Joy B.
* Spoonful
of Sugar...
I have to give my horse aspirin in his feed and have
tried just about everything you can think of to get it in him,
needless to say, neither one of us enjoys the experience very much. I
just received this month's issue of a major horse publication that
has a possible solution and I've already ordered the product. It's
called AspirEase and the woman who wrote the article claimed it's
worked for her. I'd love to hear a reader response on this product
from any of your readers who have tried it. -Georgia
P. from Temple, TX.
* Wormer
Warning!
I would like to pass on a warning given to me several
years ago when I was researching which worming program to use with my
horses. If you show your horse in A.H.S.A. (American Horse Show
Association) shows, be careful using wormers in the Benzimidazoles
class of wormer like Panacur, SafeGuard, Cutter Paste, etc. They are
highly effective wormers but are considered masking substances (they
can hide the presence of some banned substances in blood samples) and
you have to file paperwork before the
show with the show stewards if you have used these wormers within
seven days of the competition. They weren't recommending I not use
these wormers, they just wanted to make sure I knew the rules so I
wouldn't find out the hard way fifteen minutes before my class was to
begin and have to turn around and go home. The A.H.S.A. can provide
you with more information about which wormers and other med.'s fall
into the category of "masking substances." -
Joy B.
CYBER
PASTURES:
* EquineCanada
hosts a nice site aimed at kids wanting to know more about horses.
It's full of good horse facts and information and can be found at http://www.erc.on.ca/hfacts.htm Enjoy-
Joy B.
BOOK/VIDEO
CORRAL:
* A
video that has been highly recommended to me for when my mare foals
next Spring, is EARLY
LEARNING by R.M. Miller, DVM. The video is two hours
long, costs about forty dollars and is a companion to his best
selling book on imprinting newborns. Good luck! - Joy
B.
* The
number one book on the market for horse first aid, DR
KELLON'S GUIDE TO FIRST AID FOR HORSES, is now on
video. The video guide is a two-tape set and runs about $70. It shows
signs and symptoms as well as giving detailed information on what to
do in those critical moments while you're waiting for the vet to
arrive. -Joy B.
BACK TO TOP ISSUE: JUNE 1999
HELP WANTED!
Q. Need
advice on Bots...
For the first time in years, my horses came up with
bot eggs on their coats. I keep manure picked up, keep the horses fly
sprayed and that's always seemed to be enough. Can anyone suggest
another strategy in "Bot Wars"? I'm really at a loss for
what action to take and whether or not I should be worried enough to
call my vet.- Pam C. from Austin, TX.
Q. New
Treatment for DJD?
I've seen ads in major horse publications on a new
drug called Hylartin V for the treatment of DJD (Degenerative Joint
Disease) and were hoping someone who's used it could send in a
product review or recommendation. My five year old appendix, Gryphon,
has the beginnings of DJD in his front right pastern and, since his
diagnosis two years ago in an x-ray taken during the pre-purchase
exam, has received injections of Legend and been on a chrondoitin
sulfate and glucosamine food additives. Subsequent x-rays have shown
minimal growth, but this new drug sounds like it could substantially
increase the protection for the joint and possibly replace the additives.-
Joy B.
Q. Fungus
Amongus:
Sorry, couldn't resist that one! We have a fungus
going through our barn and my horse seems to be getting it too. We've
tried Captan Powder, and touching up each area with Provodone Iodine,
but it's still spreading. Can anyone suggest a product, or line or
products, which will knock this fungus quickly? There are so many
products on the market all claiming to be the best that I don't know
where to start and don't want to waste a lot of time or money. Thanks
in advance for the help!- T. from Hondo, Texas.
READER RESPONSE:
Hoof
war rages on (
from May, 1999):
(Ed. note: There were many great responses to this
question, too many in fact for this month's issue! If you answered
this question, please be patient, I'll try to get as many responses
as I can in next months column and will print them in the order they
came in. Here are the first two responses.)
R-1: Your farrier is correct. Oily hoof dressings actually cause the hoof to become water repellent and, in time, will dry the hoof out. He's also correct in his statement that this will cause the shoes to loosen as it will dry out the opening around the nail hole, allowing them to wear and become enlarged. As for using motor oil as a hoof dressing, this is a very bad idea. Motor oil (fresh or burned) contains detergents and additives that will dry out the hoof wall even more, also again, oils will cause the hoof wall to become water repellent. Most all over the counter commercial hoof dressings are safe and effective when used as directed. Ask YOUR farrier how often you need to apply hoof dressing, as he is the only one truly qualified to assess the condition of your horse's feet. When applying any hoof dressing, the area around the nail holes should be avoided. You do not want that area too soft. It won't be able to hold the nails and shoes can become loose or thrown. It sounds like your farrier is on track and you should trust his judgement.- Stephanie Schriner, Certified Farrier, 26 years experience, via e-mail.
R-2: Hoof dressing is for keeping moisture in, yet, it also keeps moisture out. On rainy days, dressings are good since they prevent over moisturizing and minimize the possibility of thrush. Hoof dressings inability to "breathe" can actually be drying to the hoof. Natural hooves receive moisture when they see morning dew or step in mud to drink water, allowing for that daily moisture balance. Lanolin on the coronet band will add moisture without softening the hoof wall. I sometimes put Corona (lanolin) on the frog when it gets dry. Sounds like you have a good farrier.- Lisa (on line)
Halters
on pastured horses? (from May, 1999):
R-1:
I strongly recommend that you not leave a halter on your best friend
at any time unless you are right there, but if you must do so, make
your own break-a-way halter. Take an inexpensive nylon halter and
remove the long strap that buckles. Replace it with a leather strap-
you can use scrap leather for this project, or an old leather dog
collar. The barn owner obviously has never seen a horse dead or
injured from leaving a halter on- it's something you never forget.- Nanci
F., from Lockhart, Texas.
R-2:
I have a problem with halters on pastured horses aside from the sheer
physical danger it places the unattended horse in, it also puts them
at a greater risk for being stolen than horses that are not haltered.
If horses in pasture with halters on are easier for the staff to
catch, wouldn't that also make them easier for a thief to catch?
Really look at this facility again, but this time with the eyes of a
thief. Look for easy access, hidden areas where a fence could be cut
and a horse caught quickly, how much activity is there on the road
the facility is on and would a strange truck and trailer be noticed
and reported? How often are the horse's checked and how long would it
take for a problem to be noticed? Finally, a barn owner or manager
should always take the legitimate concerns of the horse owner
seriously and address them promptly and courteously. You should have
received a better answer than, "Don't worry about it." I
hope all goes well for you and your horse at this barn, good luck.- Joy
B., from Buda, Texas.
STABLE
CUES:
* Killing
to be kind!
In a major horse publication recently, a warning was
passed along concerning worming newborn and young foals. It seems
there have been several reported cases of overdoses leading to at
least one documented death. The article in EQUUS by Christine Barakat
was based on research conducted by Philip Johnson, BVSc, of the
University of Missouri, who said the problems could have been avoided
if the owners had read and heeded the wormer's package insert
concerning recommended dosages and body weight. I want to point out it
was not the manufactures negligence that caused the
accidental poisonings, the foals were given a dosage ten times
the recommended amount to be administered. If you have questions
concerning worming foals, especially those under four months of age,
please consult with your Vet.- Joy B.
*
Bale-full
tale:
I recently bought four bales of hay from a local feed
store. I've bought hay from them before, it wasn't always the best
quality for the amount charged, but it was safe for my horses to eat.
The last bales I bought from them were full of Silver Leaf Nightshade
plants apparently from last years last cutting. The seedpods were
mostly intact and the plants were large with some of the leaves
remaining. I don't know how long the toxicity lasts or how much they
can consume before they get sick or abort a foal, but I wasn't
willing to find out with my horses. I immediately dumped the bales in
the dumpster and purchased more hay from the feed store that I
normally use, I didn't have to check their bales because I am
familiar with the pasture they bale from and know it's clean. I guess
what I am trying to suggest is to check the bales of hay before you
leave the store, especially if you aren't familiar with where the hay
is coming from and who baled it. Caveat Emptor- "Let the buyer beware." Anonymous
BACK TO TOP ISSUE: JULY 1999
HELP WANTED!
Q. Stuck
by "El Ninio"!
I hope someone out there has an answer for this
problem, because I'm about to pull my hair out!!! I use Sport Med.
boots on my horse every time I ride and for some reason this year
(another thing to blame on El Ninio?) the stick tights and other
stickers seem to have not only quadrupled, but decided to attach
themselves to his boots and my dogs! I'm spending more time pulling
the stickers out of his boots with tweezers than I am riding and it's
getting to where some days I just won't ride because I don't have the
time to deal with it. Any suggestions on how to save my frazzled
nerves and his boots from further damage would be wonderful.- About
to be bald from Kerrville, TX.
Q. Need
advice for foundered horse:
HELP, I have a 12-year-old Quarter Horse that was just
checked by our wonderful hometown vet, and was informed my horse was
in the first stages of founder. We hurried and had the horse shoer
put pads and silicon on, by the next day he was ten times better.
After four weeks, he still shows signs of tenderness, but only on the
front. My question is- is this normal? Should I be concerned that it
could be something else? Any information on this subject would be
greatly appreciated!!!- Perry O from
Colorado- on line.
Q. Give
me the "creeps":
This is going to sound really silly, but what is
"creep feed"? I keep reading about how to make sure your
horse gets the best feed and supplements and everything mentions
horses need a certain amount of creep feed, but they never say what
that is and the people I've asked don't seem to know either. We've
all got theories, but no answers.- Name with
held by request.
READER RESPONSE:
Hoof
war rages on ( from May, 1999):
R-1: Every
time your farrier puts a nail into that hoof wall, he is weakening
it. Most horses don't need shoes at all, so you might want to read up
on some of the new publications on the natural care of horses'
hooves. Add biotin to your horse's feed- this will help the hoof
wall, and the foot in general, to be healthy. Biotin can be found at
your local feed store or through any of the horse health catalogs. It
(biotin) is not expensive, works very well, and is a natural
supplement. Two excellent thrush remedies are: a strong bleach
solution or straight formaldehyde, brushed on the affected areas of
the hoof.- Nanci F. from Lockhart, TX.
R-2: Burnt
motor oil and pine tar is an old dry hoof remedy that many swear by,
but they have caustic agents in them that will irritate the coronet
band that leads many to believe it stimulates growth. However, my
farrier told me that this is not a natural or healthy growth. You
also won't find a can of hoof oil in my barn because research I've
done for my own horses lead me to conclude that any oil based product
(chiefly petroleum) can block moisture and hold in dirt, debris and
bacteria, as well as promote rot and weaken hoof walls. My farrier
has me stand my horses in mud and use a lanolin product like Corona
or Hoof Alive on the coronet band, heel and sometimes the frog as
needed. I've also used The Right Step with good results. As for
thrush, my farrier has me use Koppertox sparingly on the shod horses
and for the barefoot critter, I use a ten- percent bleach solution.
So far, everyone's healthy. As for the disagreement at the barn,
stick with your farrier and let your horse's healthy hooves do the
arguing for you. Good luck- Joy B.
Hands
on problem (
from May, 1999):
R: This
is a tough question to answer because I'm not sure what your
instructor is trying to teach you! To me, "still" means
completely at rest- no motion, and the only time your hands would be
"still" to my understanding would be when your horse is
halted and not moving. Could your instructor be saying
"quiet" hands? There is a difference. I would strongly
suggest you have your lessons videotaped so YOU can see exactly what
you are doing with your hands, then go over the session with your
instructor. I also might suggest you might want to consider riding
with another instructor. It sounds to me that both of you are
frustrated with the situation and he/she is unable to communicate to
you what they want. This doesn't mean he/she isn't a wonderful
instructor, it just seems that the two of you are not communicating
and after a year, a change might be in order- hang in there and don't
give up!- Joy B.
Need
advice on bots ( from June, 1999):
R: I
appreciate your upset, my horses came in with a few bot eggs this
year and I wasn't happy. I'm taking basically the same steps you're
taking and knowledgeable horse people and ranchers I respect passed
them on to me. What we're doing is: spread the manure and soiled
bedding in as thin a layer as possible on hot, dry days. In between
spreading, I try to keep the piles covered with a tarp to bring the
temperature of the manure up to bake the fly eggs so they won't
hatch. I keep flytraps next to each stall and use Pen Pro or hydrated
lime every month to keep the urine spots from becoming a hot spot for
flies and gnats. I also use Absorbine's UltraShield fly spray and
keep the horses on Strongid C2X with an extra dose of Ivermectin
during bot time in May and October. Other than that just keep
checking your horse's coat everyday and keep the eggs removed and
your horses should be OK., but, I always feel you should keep your
vet informed and get his/her advice on your particular situation.
When in doubt- check it out! Good luck- Joy B.
STABLE
CUES:
* Saved
by the bell!
For years I've had a problem with my horse pulling her
front shoes! I can't remember how many farriers I've gone through and
how many missed trail rides and horse shows there'd been, but that's
all over now thanks to good advice from a new horse buddy. Bell
boots! It's sounds too simple to work but it has for the last
thirteen months and now my mare never goes out without them. Get a
size larger than your horse would normally need so they'll touch the
ground in the back and remove them at night. They'll get frayed and
tear so you'll have to replace them, and you'll have to check them
everyday for stickers, etc., but it's still cheaper than a call out
fee and trying to find a new farrier every five weeks!- Carolyn
E. from Georgetown, TX.
* New
toll free number to report abuse:
H.O.R.S.E.S. in Texas has announced they have a new
toll free number to report cases of neglect, cruelty and abuse.
"We hope that it will be helpful in allowing us to respond to
reports of abuse in a more timely manner." The number is (888)
301-6098 and they can be found on the web at http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Village/8590/
Submitted by Toni B. of Chico, Texas.
BACK TO TOP ISSUE: AUGUST 1999
HELP WANTED!
Q.
Barrel Racing and bits:
I have an eight-year-old paint gelding that I need a
little more turning power on for barrels. I'm 15 and I trained him
for barrels myself and we are now winning ribbons. I am using a
rubber-nosed hackamore on him, but the sides of the hackamore dig
into his jawbones when I put pressure on the reins. I don't want to
go to a gag bit because I have enough "whoa" power, I just
need more turning power on him. I have one more problem with him, he
is also a Western Pleasure horse and he has trouble picking up his
Right lead when he lopes. I know this is important, but I just can't
get him to do it right the first time, no matter how many times I
practice correcting leads with him. Any suggestions?-
Sandi S from Minnesota (on-line)
Q.
Spin techniques:
I need to know the proper technique to use to get my
horse to spin- both to the left and to the right. Can anyone tell me
how?- Marta H (on-line)
Q. Need
advice on showing:
I've got a nice little Quarter Horse gelding, that I
would like to start showing in A.Q.H.A. shows but I have to admit I
don't have a clue what I'm doing ("Jax" already knows
this)! I'm interested in trying Western Pleasure, Horsemanship and
Trail classes, but I can't afford a trainer. Any advice or tips would
be greatly appreciated! I need help on everything from competition
clothes to ring etiquette. Thanks!- Gracilynn
from Austin, TX.
READER RESPONSE:
Fungus
Amongus (from June, 1999):
R: Rather
than treat a fungus only by topical applications of Captan, or other
dressings, try boosting your horse's immune system with the herb,
Echinacea Purpurea. This is easily obtained at WalMart, or other big
chains- the pharmacies in these larger store generally has a large
supply of herbal products. Buy a large bottle of Echinacea capsules-
open them and put eight capsules worth of the herb in your horse's
feed twice a day for a couple of weeks (or longer) and see if that
doesn't do the trick for a pesky fungus. If the animal doesn't eat it
readily in the feed, then mix the herbs with molasses (to paste
consistency) place in a syringe and administer orally. I have used
this treatment on many ailments from skin fungus to venomous bites
(both snake and wasp) to respiratory problems in horses, ponies,
donkeys, dogs and cats (adjust dosage according to weight of animal)
and found it to be very effective. If the animal develops a loose
stool, lower the dosage by one capsule until you find the bowel tolerance.-
Nanci F from Lockhart, TX
Stuck
by "El Ninio" (from July, 1999):
R-1:
They make covers for Sports Med. boots that you can buy, or you could
probably make them yourself fairly easily.- Lynn F. from San Marcos, TX
R-2:
You can purchase vinyl covers for you boots at most tack stores and
they should give adequate protection. As for your dogs, we've started
using a spray in coat conditioner to make the hairs slick so the
stickers comb right out and that's made life around here a little
easier. Good luck- Joy B.
Give
me the "creeps" (from July, 1999):
R: Creep
feeds are specially formulated feeds for nursing foals and
weanlings. There are a number of commercially produced feeds
available that provide the special nutrition a growing baby needs
from calcium and phosphorus to copper and zinc with the form of
protein (usually soy protein) that they need and can easily digest.
The word "creep" evidently comes from the way the foals
were fed. A feeder is built with a barrier placed above the bucket at
about two inches higher than the foal's withers (raised as the foal
grows) so he/she can creep under and eat un-harassed by Mom.-
Joy B.
STABLE
CUES:
* Udderly
clean!
I have found the best way to clean my mare's udders is
with Excalibur Sheath Cleaner. It uses a mild cleanser and tea tree
oil to remove dirt and smegma from stallion and gelding's sheaths,
but I found it works great on udders too! I apply the cleaner to the
udders and let it sit while I bathe the horse and by the time I'm
finished, the Excalibur has loosened the crusty material to the point
all I have to do is gently wipe with a sponge and rinse. The mare
never gets upset and the skin has never appeared to be irritated.
Hope this helps!- Anonymous from San
Antonio, TX.
* Deadly
Combination- Wormer Alert:
A warning is being circulated in horse magazines and
by word of mouth, concerning the potentially deadly interaction of
Silverleaf Nightshade and wormers containing Ivermectin. In one major
horse publication, Tam Garland, DVM, of Texas A & M University,
has been reported to have documented fourteen cases of horses who
consumed the toxic plant after being administered normally safe
dosages of an Ivermectin wormer, and who later died of symptoms
associated with Ivermectin poisoning. Experts insist that the wormers
containing Ivermectin are not only extremely safe and effective, but
very hard to over-dose a horse with, and point to the interaction
with the plant as the cause of the toxic reaction. The reports vary,
but there appears to be a twenty-four hour period before and after
the actual worming where the threat is the most dangerous, and owners
are being cautioned to monitor their horses after de-worming. If you
have concerns about de-worming, consult with your Veterinarian about
the risk to your horse. For more information on Silverleaf
Nightshade, you can contact your local Agricultural Agent.- Joy
B.
CYBER
PASTURES:
* A
fun horse site I think you and your kids will enjoy is Shadowood
Horse Quizzes at
http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Valley/1633/quiz.html I took one of the quizzes and thoroughly enjoyed myself! The quizzes are multiple choice (guess), entertaining and will challenge your horse knowledge. My test results came in within twenty-four hours and I'm pleased to admit I did pretty well on the Unicorn quiz. Check out the quizzes and then go to the Shadowood home page, I think you'll enjoy the visit.- Joy B.
BOOK/VIDEO
CORRAL:
* If
you're thinking about moving on to a five to ten+ acre lot so you
can have your horse at home, or if you're just thinking about
building a run-in shed or revamping your horse's run, you might want
to check out HORSEKEEPING
ON A SMALL ACREAGE by Cherry Hill and published by
Garden Way Publishing. This book is packed with necessary and useful
information from how many acres you need per animal to types of
drainage and styles of barns to management issues. It's a good book
to have around!- Joy B.
FREE
STUFF:
* Two
new mane and tail products have been introduced by exhibitor labs
that promise to strengthen and moisturize each individual hair, the
products are called Quick Condition 1 and Quick Condition 2. To
obtain a free sample, call 1-800-377-7963. If you try this product,
please send a product review to this column and I'll get it into a
future publication. - Joy B.
BACK TO TOP ISSUE: SEPTEMBER 1999
HELP WANTED!
Q. Ready
for the Rockettes!
Hi! My four-year-old mare has just gotten into the
habit of kicking and it's getting out of control! She doesn't kick
people, just other horses. When she is in the stall, she kicks the
walls of the horse in the next stall that is bothering her. This has
become a problem because she has damaged a trailer and she has capped
a hock. Also, in under-saddle classes, if a horse gets near her she
pins her ears back and kicks. She never used to do this! My trainer
is afraid she is going to get seriously hurt. She is so sweet to
people and with some horses she is fine, but you never know when she
is going to kick so it's extremely hard to control. She is only four
and I am hoping I can get her out of this habit quickly. Thanks for
any advice. - Laurel (on-line)
Q. Dust-buster
needed:
Has anyone come up with a way to keep dust down in
barns? Our barn has dirt aisles and every time we rake up the loose
hay we set off the smoke detectors! Seriously, it really is a dirty
mess and it can't be healthy for human or horse to breathe in that
much dust- any advice would be welcome.- Anonymous
from Texas
Q. Water
trough trauma:
This is a two-part question- I hope that's O.K.?
First, we're having a major problem this year with bees, hornets and
yellow jackets on the water troughs and tanks. We've had several
horses stung this year and I had a real scare when my mare got stung
below her eye and the eye swollen shut. She was o.k. in a few days,
but now I can't get her to go near the water trough. She snorts and
plants her feet, side steps and practically runs over me every time I
try to lead her to it and I'm afraid she's not getting enough to
drink in this heat. So, my second question is, how can I get her to
drink from that trough again without either one of us getting hurt?- Amy
from San Antonio, TX.
READER RESPONSE:
Fungus
Amongus (from June, 1999):
R: If
you have any question at all as to what type of fungus your horse
has, I would suggest you consult with your vet first for a couple of
reasons. First, I was advised that some fungal looking blemishes and
sores could actually be a symptom of illness, the faster it's
diagnosed, the greater the chance of successful treatment . Second,
there are many types of fungi out there with very specific remedies
and if you don't know which one you're dealing with, you could spend
a lot of time and money on a product that is doing absolutely nothing
to solve your problem. For the simple fungal problems that have
turned up on our place, I've used MicroTek by Eqyss and been very
pleased with the results. One horse out here gets a Spring itch every
year and MicroTek usually takes care of it in one or two
applications. A starveling we took in had a nasty case of rain rot
and there was a noticeable improvement with his first bath, but it
took about a week to get it under control and to be able to say it
was clearing up. MicroTek can be hard to find in some areas and you
may have to have your feed store order it- I've been able to get mine
from Callahan's General Store on Hwy 183 in Austin-
Joy B.
Need
advice for foundered horse (
from July, 1999):
R: This
is a tough question no one wanted to go on record to answer because
there are so many variables! First, how was the horse diagnosed and
did you get a second opinion? X-rays are probably the best way to
literally see what's going on in your horse's hooves and from these
you should be able to sit your vet and farrier down together to
determine the best course of treatment. According to my farrier, the
pads and silicon helped your horse initially because they took the
pressure off his heels. As to the recurring tenderness being normal
he said yes and no. Foundered horses will have good days and bad days
but without x-rays, pictures of his feet, or being able to see the
horse in person, he would not hazard a guess as to why your horse is
still having problems. His recommendation was that you have your vet
and farrier work together on the horse and take x-rays at regular
intervals to determine whether or not he's improving. He also
suggested you might want to discuss with your farrier squaring the
toes and using wedged pads to support the heel (he may even need
support for the frog) and look into the wedged shoes that are now
available. Good luck- Joy B.
Need
advice on showing (from August 1999):
R-1: First,
do your homework- obtain a copy of the A.Q.H.A.
Rulebook and study
A.Q.H.A. show rules. Attend a few A.Q.H.A. shows and watch the
classes in which you are interested in competing and check out who's
winning and what they are doing in order to win. Watch the lower
placements as well, you can learn from everyone. Most importantly,
keep in mind those showing should be a positive experience for both
you and your horse. A competitive spirit is fine, but don't let it
rule your life and remember that judging is a very subjective matter-
if a judge doesn't place you in a class at one show, the next judge
may see things differently and place you high. Showing horses is
definitely a field where the old adage "Practice makes
perfect," applies. Good luck with your show career and have fun!-
Nanci F from Lockhart, TX.
R-2: Keeping
in mind you'll probably be going up against riders from all levels
of show competition from newbies like you and me, to professional
amateurs with top notch trainers, the more practice and confidence
you can build in yourself and your horse, before
you enter your first A.Q.H.A., event
should go a long way to making the experience a positive one. To help
with this, A.Q.H.A. has published a booklet to aide newcomers in
their first show and it can be obtained free of charge from A.Q.H.A.
by contacting them at (or click) P.O.
Box 200, Amarillo, TX, 79168. While you're waiting
for this, go to the local horse shows and watch the events to get a
good idea of what you want to do. Next, you might want to look into a
couple of books by Charlene Strickland dealing specifically with
Western showing (clothes and presentation as well as how to prepare
for each event) and go back to the shows and really study the classes
and the judging. You might want to look for an instructor in your
area with a reputation for bringing along new competitors then
practice, practice, practice! When you think you're just about ready
for A.Q.H.A. start competing at the local playdays and open shows to
get your feet wet and work out the nerves- then when you're ready, go
for it and don't forget to have fun! Best of luck to you!- Joy
B.
STABLE
CUES:
* Stop
Thief!
While at a horse show last year, our place was robbed.
We lost hundreds of dollars worth of supplies, blankets, halters, and
bridles, etc., but the worst blow of all was the loss of several
working and show saddles. Nothing was marked with identification
information. We had only a few pictures of the saddles in family
albums and show books, but nothing to really identify our property.
The sheriff took down what information we could provide, but offered
us little hope that the items would ever be recovered. Since then,
we've marked all our saddles and equipment with our family's brand in
several locations, taken I.D. photos of every single thing in the
barn- including the horses and placed them (catalog style) in an
photo album with notes on tears, scars and any information that might
help identify it. We've also installed motion sensor lights, smoke
alarms, and instituted a barn watch buddy system with our neighbors.
Most importantly, we've cleared away the shrubs that hid the thief's
vehicle from the road and now use a combination lock instead of a
regular key lock to stop someone who might have a set of master keys.
Hopefully, the lesson we learned the hard way can help you stop
thieves from visiting your place- and if they do and you've taken
some of the steps we're now taking- you'll be able to get some of
your things back. Theresa T. location
withheld by request.
CYBER
PASTURES:
* Attention
anyone interested in barrel racing! If you have a question you can't
seem to find the answer to, or if you ever just wanted to learn more
about the sport, such as what's the difference between 4D and 3D
races or what it means to "fall in the crack," this is a
site designed specifically for you. This is the only barrel-racing
site endorsed by The National Barrel Horse Association and you'll
find everything here from training tips to the latest info on new
products and bits available. You'll also find helpful articles, an
"Ask The Pro Q&A," classifieds, and the latest
standings at
http://www.barrelhorses.com Good luck- Joy B.
BACK TO TOP ISSUE: OCTOBER 1999
HELP WANTED!
Q. Is
Age Relative?
How old does a colt need to be before you can break it
to ride? I've heard eighteen months is o.k. and I know they race
Thoroughbreds at two years- but that seems awfully young to me. My
colt is just now fifteen months old, as of September, and I'd like to
start making arrangements for his training. Thanx-
Lisa J. from McKinney, TX.
Q. Lacking
Laterals!
I'm training my QHX by myself and he's doing great
going forward at walk, trot, and canter and he's beginning to back
well, but I don't know how to teach him to side pass, or turns on the
forehand or haunches. I'd be grateful for any help anyone can give.
I'm riding him in a full cheek snaffle, no tie downs or draw reins, I
don't carry a crop with him yet and I don't wear spurs because I'm
not sure of my leg and don't want to upset or confuse him when he's
trying so hard. I know there are no short cuts and I'm willing to
work hard to help him learn. Please advise. Hope
B.- on line.
READER RESPONSE:
Barrel Racing and bits
JANUARY
1999